It’s lunch-service at family-run, French-inspired bistro Bell's, in Los Alamos. Bell’s chef, Daisy Ryan, is serving up a menu of locally-sourced dishes.
Los Alamos is relatively isolated, situated off the 101 in Santa Ynez Valley, with a population of around 1275 and a pioneer-town aesthetic to the main strip, which is only seven blocks long.
There was already a modest food and wine scene, but Bell’s – which was originally a Bank of Italy building – was recently awarded a Michelin star.
"Michelin guide was created for tourism and for going on a drive and ending up at a restaurant - as Michelin is a tire company," said Daisy Ryan.
"I feel that we really are that type of restaurant that the Michelin guide was created for. We are a destination - not just Bell's, but this valley has become more and more of one," added Daisy.
Michelin stars are awarded to restaurants offering outstanding cooking, but Daisy – who co-owns the restaurant with her husband Gregory – says the award was never their focus.
"We never in a million years expected that we would receive a Michelin star," she said.
The Ryans are familiar with the magic of this little town – Daisy grew up in the area, before returning to open Bell’s.
"Our proximity to so much wonderful product is fortunate," said Daisy.
She said local farms provide most of their produce as well as having a local sea urchin diver providing produce for one of their signature dishes.
"We try to not take for granted the access we have to this but it drives what the food is in this restaurant," said Daisy.
Ryan says the area feels less "uncovered" than the Sonoma or Napa regions, and that the pandemic had an impact "in a positive way," in helping Los Angelenos to discover more of the area, which is about two hours drive north from Los Angeles.
Customers here appreciate the small but creative menu, which includes braised beef cheek sandwich, snails and also that locally-sourced sea urchin.
"I like the selection...and I can't wait for the chicken liver mousse," one tells me.
"The wine is phenomenal and changes every time we come and the food is prepared with a lot of thought and consideration," said another.
Another diner tells me, "We live in LA and we come up here 4 or 5 times and year and never miss it when we come up."
And Bell’s is ringing in a future for this historic little town as a foodie destination.
